I Have Stirred Up a Hornet’s Nest

 Yesterday’s blog post stirred up a hornets nest. Apparently some fiber artists and business owners believe that there is only one way and one tool to measure wraps per inch. I disagree. Below are things I have used in the past to measure my wraps per inch. Everything in the picture, but one thing has been used. The only thing in the picture that I would not use is a ruler with a metal bar across one side. The reason for this is that the metal will cut into the fiber and damage to the yarn.

Yesterday’s blog was about the labeling of yarn. I stated that Yarn manufacturers and Indy Dyers needed to place the correct yarn weight on the package. That is not a huge ask considering that it is literally your job to get this right.  The yarn I was showing in yesterday‘s blog was sold as worst weight yarn, the yarn was so thin that I decided to measure it. The yarn came out as fingering weight yarn at 14 wraps per inch.  I have been told that I don’t know how to use a wraps per inch tool and that I don’t know how to measure Yarn weight correctly. I learned how to use a wraps per inch tool, OK it was a 12 inch ruler 20 years ago. I don’t think I need a lecture on how to measure yarn weight. What I also know that if the yarn comes in at 14 wraps per inch it is not worsted weight yarn and should have been labeled fingering weight yarn. Using your eyes to determine a yarns weight on your phone or computer screen is not scientifically possible. There are many different  factors to consider, including did the photographer use any enlargement. Does your computer screen magnify your images? Can you really judge the size of yarn on your phone screen? To really judge a size of the yarn, you have to be there in person. You also need to rely on vendors to get the information right.

I usually only need to use my wraps per inch tools in spinning.  I personally feel that the fiber arts need to be very inclusive. This includes everything including gender, race, and religion. We should not make economics a concern for anyone. As you can see from the picture below there are wraps per inch tools that we can even borrow from our kids school supplies. All you need is a 1 inch measure, Whether it be a piece of cardboard, a dowel, a ruler, a needle case, anything will work as long as you can put a 1 inch measure on it.

We as a group need to tell these people to stay in their own lane.  My first spinning teacher ran a farm and raised fiber animals. She sheared them. She processed the wool. She spun the wool. Most importantly, she taught me how to use a wooden ruler to determine wraps per inch and what weight fiber I had spun.  So unless you can show me how measuring an inch in the round or on a ruler is mathematically different, then stay out of my lane. My husband designed the wraps per inch tool that I use the most with my help. It is exactly 1 inch. So unless you are measuring the diameter of an object, a linear inch is always an inch.

We also have to be very aware of people’s budgets. Not everyone can afford to shop at a local Yarn store or even Michaels. Some people shop for their yarn at Salvation Army, Goodwill, or any other number of thrift stores or garage sales. Some people get their yarn from church. Some people get their yarn from other organizations in return for finished projects. It does not make you a better Knitter if you can afford expensive yarn. That just means you have money to spare. I have been known to rip out projects and not want to look at the yarn ever again. The yarn is still good and still usable, This is why I give the yarn as practice yarn to new students. I know that any art endeavor can be expensive, so because you’re your business owner it does not give you a right to tell everybody which tools to use. You can recommend tools that you carry, which is your prerogative. However, which tools an artist uses is up to them.

Yarn Standards

 There are supposed to be standards in yarn sizes. When I first started knitting over 25 years ago we learned the names of the yarns. Lace, weight, fingering weight, sport, weight, double knit or DK, Worst weight, Aran weight, Bulky weight, super bulky weight.

Then when I started spinning, I found the code to those names and what they mean. It involves a tool called a wraps per inch tool. I wrapped the yarn around the tool and figure out how many wraps it takes to fill 1 inch. So the code gives me the size of the yarn. Lace weight yarn is 30 or more wraps per inch. Fingering/ sock weight yarn is 14 to 16 wraps per inch. Sport weight yarn is 12 wraps per inch. Double knit yarn or DK Yarn is 11 wraps per inch. Worsted weight yarn is 9 wraps per inch. Aran weight yarn is 8 wraps per inch. Bulky white yarn is 7 wraps per inch. Super bulky yarn is 5 to 6 wraps per inch. These numbers also determine the amount of yarn you will get per skein of yarn. 

These are all mathematical formulas. The math is supposed to be precise, not subjective. These formulas are all standardized. They’re standardized to the point where they now have code numbers 0 which is lace weight yarn all the way through size 7, which is Super  Bulky yarn.  

With yarn sizes presented to makers and users of yarns, why in heaven‘s name am I getting mislabeled yarn from some dyers of yarn.  Take my current project for example. The label clearly states that the yarn is a worsted weight Yarn. This would call for a US 7 to 9 knitting needle. My only question is why am I knitting “worsted weight” yarn With a US size 3 knitting needle. As you can see below, the stitches are perfectly fine with a size 3 knitting needle. If I were to use a US size 7 to 9 knitting needle, I would have a very lacy project at this point. For a size 3 knitting needle, the yarn is supposed to be a fingering or sock weight yarn. The yarn is at least four knitting needle sizes too small for the stated size. 

As you can see from the two different measuring tools I used to measure the weight of the yarn. It is definitely a fingering weight yarn. The brown measuring tool comes from Katrinkles.com and the red wraps per inch tools are made by my husband and available only at Grandma’s Spinning Wheel. 

This problem is not limited to Indy Dyers or large multinational yarn companies. I know it can be quite difficult to get exact specifications from some mills. But all yarn must meet the standardized sizes. If ordered the quantity of yarn that I needed for a sweater in a worst of weight yarn and a fingering weight yarn was substituted, I would have multiple problems. First off I would not have enough yarn to complete the sweater. Secondly my gauge would be off  by at least 25%. And if I use the proper size needle called for worsted weight Yarn, I would not have a sturdy sweater, but a lacy sweater. The size would most definitely not fit right.  The desired pattern would be useless to a newer knitter. A more experience, knitter would first curse out the producer of the yarn for mislabeling the yarn. Then would have to decide after making a swatch in each of the desired patterns if it is worth rewriting the pattern to use the yarn or pick a different project. If they really wanted to make the sweater, they would have to re-order the yarn possibly from a different vendor. 

I know it can be quite pricey to have to reprint labels. My humble suggestion would be to determine the actual size of the yarn before printing the labels for the yarn.  By all means, please measure the yarn before you label it. I am lucky, I am only making a scarf so the needle size doesn’t matter. However, I did order a worsted weight yarn and got a fingering weight yarn, which makes me very unhappy. This has happened with several different Yarn companies to me this year. With the price of yarn drifting ever upwards we expect better from everyone. We expect the yarn to be properly labeled. We don’t want to buy a worsted weight Yarn and get a DK or fingering weight yarn when we order a worsted weight yarn. We really want a worsted weight Yarn. Otherwise, we would’ve ordered a different size yarn. 

Inflation does not shrink the width of the yarn. However, spinning the yarn to the wrong standards will shrink the size of the Yarn. Please don’t think your customers are fools. We demand the best from you.